杨眉
靠山吃山,靠海吃海,这是中国人顺应自然的生存智慧。借助大海的馈赠,以“海味”为特色的胶东菜成为鲁菜富有魅力的一部分。
胶东半岛三面临海,海天山色,果秀鱼跃,对虾、海参、鲍鱼、扇贝等海内奇货层出不穷;
沿海岸的带形平地,良田沃野、物产丰富,主产小麦、豆类和桑麻;
丘陵地则盛产各种水果,烟台苹果、莱阳梨闻名遐迩。
胶东人自古擅长烹饪,经历代发展,胶东菜成为鲁菜的重要组成部分。胶东菜起源于福山,故又名“福山菜”“烟台菜”,距今已有百余年历史。福山素有“烹饪之乡”盛名,烹饪技术代代相传。明清时期,大批厨师享誉北京,福山菜也随之名满天下。
味是一道菜的灵魂。受大自然的恩赐,胶东菜精于海味,善做海鲜,海鲜的风头盖过了其他食物,大凡海产品均能依其内理烹制相应的美馔。
胶东菜讲究小料的改刀与配合,刀工精细,口味清爽脆嫩,保持菜肴的原汁原味。一般饭店里,厨师以小料的形状、种类、多少来辨别不同的烹制方法,省去许多麻烦,“案”与“灶”不必大喊大叫,工作有序,忙而不乱。胶东菜烹制方法复杂而细腻。比如爆菜技法,又分出许多只有细微差别的“子技法”:油爆、汤爆、酱爆、芫爆、葱爆、宫爆、水爆等,它们有严格的工艺规程,丝毫也错乱不得。另外,胶东菜特别注重花色的搭配与造型,其造型生动、活泼、逼真,独具特色。
清末以来,胶东菜形成了以京、津为代表的“京帮胶东菜”,以烟台福山为代表的“本帮胶东菜”和以青岛为代表的“改良胶东菜”。
京帮胶东菜受清宫御膳影响较大,制作考究,排场华丽,长于肉类、禽蛋及干货的制作,对水陆八珍的烹制尤有独到之处。
本帮胶东菜长于海鲜制作,口味清淡、平和,以鲜为主,脆嫩滑爽,主要名菜有“葱烧海参”“熘虾片”“炸蛎黄”“清蒸加吉鱼”“芙蓉干贝”等。
青岛改良派广泛吸收西餐技艺,采用果酱、面包等原料制作菜肴,代表菜有“烤加吉鱼”“茄汁菊花鱼”“炸虾托”“氽西施舌”“油爆双花”等。其中,“氽西施舌”肉质细嫩,汤汁鲜美,令人回味无穷。西施舌是一种贝类海鲜,上世纪30年代,梁实秋先生在青岛顺兴楼第一次品尝西施舌,赞美道:“一碗清汤,浮着一层尖尖的白白的东西,初不知何物,主人曰西施舌,含在口中有滑嫩柔软的感觉,尝试之下果然名不虚传。”
原生态的胶东菜出自民间,因为这片土地上的人们既烹海鲜也烹山珍,虽以海鲜见长,却也陆海结合,几乎家家都能够烹制佳肴,尤以生拌、锅焖、煎炸、汤煮为拿手绝活。其中,最经典的海鲜吃法,莫过于农家宴的蒸海鲜,采用类似大锅熬汤、蒸海鲜、烀饼子的“一锅出”吃法,保留了海鲜的鲜美。
在胶东,面食也是相当具有代表性的“菜肴”。除了胶东大饽饽之外,鲅鱼水饺、玉米饼子都是正宗的胶东菜主食,搭配海鲜、炒菜的鲜香,原生态的淳朴味道透过米面的香气传入味蕾。
今天,胶东经济圈一体化正加速发展,青岛、烟台、威海、潍坊、日照“胶东五市”的生活圈联系更加紧密,菜品也互相融合創新,菜式更加丰富多彩,既实现了创新发展,亦保留了胶东菜的原始风韵。
随着气温不断升高,海滨游也即将迎来旺季。若您来到胶东半岛,在欣赏美景的同时,不妨尝尝地道的胶东菜,为旅行增添一抹“鲜味”。
编辑/魏伟
The people of Jiaodong have been adept at cooking since ancient times. After numerous years of development, Jiaodong cuisine has become an important part of Shandong cuisine. Originating in Fushan, Jiaodong cuisine is also known as“Fushan cuisine” and “Yantai cuisine”, with a history of over 100 years. Since the late Qing Dynasty, Jiaodong cuisine has formed “Capital city cuisine” represented by Beijing and Tianjin, “Local cuisine”represented by Yantai and Fushan, and “Improved cuisine” represented by Qingdao.
The capital city cuisine requires superb cooking and ornate presentation, excels at the cooking of meat, poultry eggs and dry food, and has its own knack in the cooking of eight delicacies from land and sea. The local cuisine excels at the cooking of seafood, which tastes light, mild, crisp, tender and smooth, is dominated by freshness, and mainly includes such famous dishes as Braised Sea Cucumber with Scallion, Fried Shrimp Slices, and Deep-Fried Oysters. Extensively absorbing Western cuisine skills, Qingdaos Improved Cuisine is made of jam, bread and other ingredients, and its representative dishes in- clude Chrysanthemum-Shaped Fish in Tomato Sauce, Deep-Fried Prawn, Quick-Boiled Surf Clam Shell (Mactra antiquata), and Quick-Fried Pork Kidney and Squid.
Now, the Jiaodong Economic Circle is accelerating the development of integration;
the Living Circles of the “Five Cities in Jiaodong”(Qingdao, Yantai, Weihai, Weifang and Rizhao) are increasingly closely connected, and their dishes are integrated, innovative, and full of variety, not only achieving innovation and development, but also retaining the original flavor of the Jiaodong cuisine.
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